"The whole history started here in Bethlehem with the birth of Jesus!”A young pilgrim raves. "This is great! “
On Manger Square in December 24, a motley crowd gathered in front of the Church of the Nativity. We meet groups of pilgrims, families of Bethlehem, children dressed as Santa Claus. The veils of some Muslim women mix with the veils of the religious and with the red caps of fur and white pompom. Pilgrims from around the world are trying to make their way to see more closely the scouts’ parade. At the beginning of this sunny afternoon the Latin Patriarch of Jerusalem, His Beatitude Fouad Twal is expected for his solemn entry into the Nativity Church, and Bethlehem is celebrating.
The scouts march through the city sounding their drums and bagpipes in a festive parade. Of all Christian denominations and of all ages, they proudly carry the Palestinian flag. "We are primarily from Bethlehem, Beit Sahour, Beit Jala and Ramallah, and we have rehearsed for several months to be ready today!" Says a young Syriac Orthodox scout.
The Patriarch arrived from Jerusalem and meet up with the civilian authorities of the city. Everyone advance towards the Basilica escorted by the Franciscans. He is Fr. Ricardo Bustos, the custodian of the hosting fraternity. After the traditional greeting to other Christian denominations in the nave of the basilica, he escorts them to the sound of Te Deum for the first vespers in St. Catherine Church. On this special day, the daily procession gathers in addition to the Franciscans, His Beatitude Fouad Twal, the seminarians of the Latin Patriarchate and some pilgrims.
Outside, the night fell and the lights illuminate the square. The animations follow one another on the stage set for the occasion. In the Basilica, the final preparations are underway. Sacristans and masters of ceremonies are busy. Thanks to this work from the shadows everything will work in the best way under the camera lenses and their world coverage broadcast.
Meanwhile at the Shepherds Field, pilgrim groups follow one another in the various caves, chapels and tents to celebrate mass: They are Catholics and Protestants from Indonesia, China, Latin America or Europe. In a sacristy, Fr. Alberto hurries to prepare the next mass. “There is only one Franciscan here during the year but for Christmas six of us come to reinforce, mainly seminarians.” Everyone deals with three or four places and must manage the organization of a dozen Masses taking place simultaneously. Yet attendance is low: “This year 70 groups were expected (in contrast to the 140 groups of the last year) due to the difficult situation in the country. It is easier then and the atmosphere is relaxed, although some groups did not come or arrived late leading to schedules’ changes.” But the Christmas spirit is there, and he added, smiling, “People do not grumble. Everyone is smiling and wishing a Merry Christmas.”
23:15 at St. Catherine Church, the Office of Readings began followed by Midnight Mass presided over by the Patriarch and bringing about 1700 faithful. General Consuls of the four Latin countries (France, Italy, Spain, Belgium) were present, as well as the President of the Palestinian Authority Mahmoud Abbas. Patriarch Twal called to pray for peace in the Holy Land on this day that celebrates the birth of Jesus, child and Savior.
In the cave, Fr. Nerwan, the parish priest and his assistants celebrate the Christmas Mass in Arabic at the altar of the Manger. A Mass specially celebrated for the Peace in the Middle East and particularly in Syria and Iraq where Christians suffer even more.
The celebration ended with the sound of Gloria in excelsis Deo and bells ringing a full peal. The Patriarch brings into the procession the statue of baby Jesus to the manger.
At the back of the church, Shibly, Jack and Shadi, the three kawas in blue and gold uniform, wait to return to Jerusalem. They guided the procession all day, leading the way for the Franciscans and the Patriarch. Shibly smiled, "It's true that I do this every year, but it fills me and it's always a great pleasure to celebrate Christmas in Bethlehem!"
The friars returned to service to clean and prepare the church for the Mass the next day. In the cave of the nativity the parade of pilgrims will be extended until the morning while Masses are held overnight at the altar of the manger. Many Indians are there. Salma, for example, works in Jerusalem and at 5 pm a Mass will be celebrated in her dialect. The Indian community in Israel has shifted and is delighted.
Everything is quiet and yet it is not finished. With the birth of Christ a new beginning is offered to us.
Hélène Morlet