It is not yet nine in the morning when the city starts to come to life to sounds of the Scouts’ fanfares. Following tradition, they lead the motorcade that precedes the car bearing the Patriarch, Mgr. Michel Sabbah, for his entry, planned for one o’clock in the afternoon. All the Scouts are there: not only the Catholic Scouts from Bethlehem and their Jerusalem colleagues, but also the Greek, Syriac, Copt, and Armenian Orthodox Scouts from the Bethlehem-Beit Sahur-Beit Jala region. They put on a great show, and the whole town appreciates the festivities that, five days a year (1), lifts them out of the years-long torpor into which the political situation has plunged them. At 10:30, the parade is at its height and Manger Square is filled with the crowds who press against the barriers. The town’s Muslims are not the last to appreciate the show, either. People are saying that there will be large crowds for Christmas, and the whole population rejoices.
Since morning, clusters of tourists have been trying to reach the Basilica of the Nativity, sometimes running as they leave it, having seen the Scouts pass by and wanting to take that special photo that will complete their album. One German pilgrim is overcome with emotion — he has come over 5,000 kilometers (over 3,000 miles) on bicycle to be here for Christmas Day.
The Franciscan friars set to work: for some it’s the final preparations; for others, being available to journalists who want to finish up the pieces that are due to be published or broadcast at midday. Father Ibrahim Faltas is much in demand by local television stations. Al Jazira, the famous television station from Qatar that broadcasts throughout the Arab world (2), is there too. So as to say, every word counts.
In front of the basilica, members of several professions will be putting in a long day: journalists, but also street vendors and Palestinian tourist guides. The police, in surprisingly large numbers, sharply rebuke all the children who take advantage of the presence of so many tourists to panhandle.
Towards noon, the motorcade stops at Mar Elias, the Greek Orthodox monastery that traditionally marks the entrance into the Beit Sahur-Beit Jala-Bethlehem region. As for all Solemn Entries, Palestinian vehicles (3) have the right to use old main road that passes in front of Rachel’s Tomb. There are no problems; the Israeli soldiers verify that all vehicles have permits.
At Mar Elias, the Patriarch waits under a hot, bright son. The atmosphere is relaxed; the new military commander of the Gush Etzion district, which includes this region, is Druze. He speaks fluent Arabic and is all smiles as he embraces the Patriarch when he steps out of his car. There, in front of the monastery, the Patriarch receives the holiday greetings of all the Christians present and replies to journalists. Even Tzahal, the Israeli army, has sent journalists and photographers. The young Israeli soldiers are also in a festive mood at the sight of what until now has only been a bit of folklore they knew nothing about and in the presence of the most inoffensive of Palestinians. At least Christmas will leave them with an impression of peace.
The motorcade does not advance: “There are a lot of cars,” says Brother Ibrahim. In fact, there are traffic jams in Bethlehem that are slowing everyone down. Upon arrival at the Basilica of the Nativity, the delay will be almost an hour and a half.
Father Jerzy Kraj, newly appointed Guardian of Saint Catherine’s, greets the Patriarch for the first time here, before the entrance to the Basilica of the Nativity, in front of the “Door of Humility”. Having entered the narthex, at the bottom of the nave, the Patriarch greets the representatives of the Orthodox Churches and then turns toward the cloister, through which he will enter Saint Catherine’s Church. The prayer that begins with the Benedictus and Te Deum, continues with First Vespers of the feast, followed by the procession to the grotto. A large crowd joins the Franciscans and Patriarchate’s seminarians.
With the prayer, the mystery of Christmas begins. Several hours still separate us from Midnight Mass. It is five o’clock; evening has fallen. The pilgrims surge. There are twice as many as last year, they say, around 20 to 30,000. We haven’t see the like since the beginning of the second Intifada in 2000.
The journalists comment on the hopes for peace. A Palestinian woman who lives in the town told me only, “We would like a little less of hope and a few fewer journalists and a bit more of something concrete.” It is Christmas, after all. What if we let the Prince of Peace take over?
MAB
1. The others are the two entries of the Custos for Saint Catherine’s Day and Epiphany, and the entries of the Orthodox Patriarchs for their Christmas on the sixth of January, and that of the Armenians, the 18th.
2. It is estimated that the Arabic-language Al Jazira network counts from 35 to 40 million daily viewers around the world.
3. The Palestinian vehicles are recognizable because of their white license plates with green printing.
Since morning, clusters of tourists have been trying to reach the Basilica of the Nativity, sometimes running as they leave it, having seen the Scouts pass by and wanting to take that special photo that will complete their album. One German pilgrim is overcome with emotion — he has come over 5,000 kilometers (over 3,000 miles) on bicycle to be here for Christmas Day.
The Franciscan friars set to work: for some it’s the final preparations; for others, being available to journalists who want to finish up the pieces that are due to be published or broadcast at midday. Father Ibrahim Faltas is much in demand by local television stations. Al Jazira, the famous television station from Qatar that broadcasts throughout the Arab world (2), is there too. So as to say, every word counts.
In front of the basilica, members of several professions will be putting in a long day: journalists, but also street vendors and Palestinian tourist guides. The police, in surprisingly large numbers, sharply rebuke all the children who take advantage of the presence of so many tourists to panhandle.
Towards noon, the motorcade stops at Mar Elias, the Greek Orthodox monastery that traditionally marks the entrance into the Beit Sahur-Beit Jala-Bethlehem region. As for all Solemn Entries, Palestinian vehicles (3) have the right to use old main road that passes in front of Rachel’s Tomb. There are no problems; the Israeli soldiers verify that all vehicles have permits.
At Mar Elias, the Patriarch waits under a hot, bright son. The atmosphere is relaxed; the new military commander of the Gush Etzion district, which includes this region, is Druze. He speaks fluent Arabic and is all smiles as he embraces the Patriarch when he steps out of his car. There, in front of the monastery, the Patriarch receives the holiday greetings of all the Christians present and replies to journalists. Even Tzahal, the Israeli army, has sent journalists and photographers. The young Israeli soldiers are also in a festive mood at the sight of what until now has only been a bit of folklore they knew nothing about and in the presence of the most inoffensive of Palestinians. At least Christmas will leave them with an impression of peace.
The motorcade does not advance: “There are a lot of cars,” says Brother Ibrahim. In fact, there are traffic jams in Bethlehem that are slowing everyone down. Upon arrival at the Basilica of the Nativity, the delay will be almost an hour and a half.
Father Jerzy Kraj, newly appointed Guardian of Saint Catherine’s, greets the Patriarch for the first time here, before the entrance to the Basilica of the Nativity, in front of the “Door of Humility”. Having entered the narthex, at the bottom of the nave, the Patriarch greets the representatives of the Orthodox Churches and then turns toward the cloister, through which he will enter Saint Catherine’s Church. The prayer that begins with the Benedictus and Te Deum, continues with First Vespers of the feast, followed by the procession to the grotto. A large crowd joins the Franciscans and Patriarchate’s seminarians.
With the prayer, the mystery of Christmas begins. Several hours still separate us from Midnight Mass. It is five o’clock; evening has fallen. The pilgrims surge. There are twice as many as last year, they say, around 20 to 30,000. We haven’t see the like since the beginning of the second Intifada in 2000.
The journalists comment on the hopes for peace. A Palestinian woman who lives in the town told me only, “We would like a little less of hope and a few fewer journalists and a bit more of something concrete.” It is Christmas, after all. What if we let the Prince of Peace take over?
MAB
1. The others are the two entries of the Custos for Saint Catherine’s Day and Epiphany, and the entries of the Orthodox Patriarchs for their Christmas on the sixth of January, and that of the Armenians, the 18th.
2. It is estimated that the Arabic-language Al Jazira network counts from 35 to 40 million daily viewers around the world.
3. The Palestinian vehicles are recognizable because of their white license plates with green printing.